A Taste of Spain in San Antonio’s Missions National Historical Park

Mission San Juan

I am a big fan of anything administered by the U.S. National Park Service. As a small child living in New Jersey, my parents, my brother and I used to head west in my parents’ 1969 Plymouth Fury to explore national parks across the country. Anytime I visit a national park, I am reminded of childhood vacations.

In San Antonio, Texas, tourists can experience a taste of the Spanish empire at San Antonio Missions National Historical Park. These missions were founded by Franciscan brothers who were teaching and converting the Coahuiltecan Native Americans. Four missions, all within a reasonably short drive or bicycle ride of each other (bikes can be rented at Mission Concepcion or Mission San Jose), let tourists experience life on the Spanish frontier. The missions are located south of downtown, with the first mission normally being Mission Concepcion. I got a little confused in my directions so I will start in the order that I visited the four park missions. All four missions have active congregations and on Sundays, mariachi Mass is celebrated at both Mission Concepcion and Mission San Jose.

Mission San Juan Capistrano

On a cool, clear day in the last remnants of Texas’ spring, I began at Mission San Juan which is a vibrant white against the blue, sunny sky. The mission, which was moved to this location in 1731, includes a convent, a nature trail along the San Antonio River, ruins of the first stone church and a burial ground. Only a portion of the buildings that were a part of the mission are above ground today. Tourists can visit the simply but beautifully decorated church and photographs are permitted.

It is hard to imagine that in the past this mission had fields dedicated to corn, sheep and cattle. With signs posted around the mission to provide visitors with a history, it was interesting reading that this mission was a stop on the commerce trail with Mexico City, as mule trains, loaded with goods, would stop at Mission San Juan. The mission would export goods like foodstuffs and hides.

Inside the church at Mission San Juan

Life on the frontier was hard and missions had to rely on herbal remedies like wild onion for coughs and colds, desert holly for fevers and upset stomachs and prickly pear cactus for burns, cuts and insect bites. Missions sadly also suffered from epidemics from European diseases like smallpox and measles.

Be careful walking around the grounds of this mission as there are an abundance of fire ants. I even heard two tourists commenting about the size of the insects.

Mission Espada

Mission Espada

While Mission San Jose is generally the most popular mission, personally, Mission Espada was my favorite mission of the four. Mission Espada is the most southern mission and served as vital link in the mission chain. This mission was founded in 1690 (and moved to this location in 1731) but was vulnerable to attack by both Apache and Comanche tribes because of its location.

Mission Espada includes the remains of a bastion and visitors can visualize the grim existence of battles on the frontier. Education was a tradition of Mission Espada and the small museum on site includes pictures from the parochial school in 1941, as a school was on site starting in the 1800s up until the 1960s.

The mission was also actively involved in cattle ranching and the small museum includes exhibits of scary spurs (which look very dangerous!) as well as branding irons.

Convent at Mission Espada

What I liked best about Mission Espada is the simplicity of the church along with the lovely, colorful flowers outside the convent, as well as the ruins of the first church, granary and a bastion scattered about the grounds. Looking just outside the mission is a small neighborhood and a regional airport (Stinson Municipal Airport) is also close by. It’s a startling contrast of the old and the new.

Mission San Jose

Mission San Jose

Inside Mission San Jose

This mission, which was founded in 1720, appears to be the most popular and is packed with tour groups and school classes. Mission San Jose’s church was central to the mission community and the ornate carvings, as well as the famous rose window, have resulted in the nickname “Queen of the Missions”. Unfortunately, the rose window was undergoing some renovation while I was visiting, but visitors could still explore the beautiful church interior as well as the substantial grounds. Tourists will also get an idea of the stone walls needed for defense in such a hostile environment.

This mission also includes a large visitors’ center, including a film on the first inhabitants of South Texas, as well as frequent ranger tours.

Church at Mission San Jose

Walking around the grounds, visitors can see remnants of some of the wall art and what original frescoes must have looked like. The wall art served a variety of functions including teaching Catholicism to the Coahuiltecans, hiding construction flaws and usage as decorations.

The grounds at San Jose are the largest of the four missions and I tried to imagine what life must have been like during the 1700s.

Mission Concepcion

Mission Concepcion

Inside the church at Mission Concepcion

Visitors to Mission Concepcion will immediately notice the large amount of stonework and how well this mission has maintained its past. Mission Concepcion included a quarry which was a source of the stone for both this mission and parts of Mission San Jose.

Area for private prayer at Mission Concepcion

Be sure to visit the gardens on the left side of the church grounds which are reserved for private prayer. The quietness and pretty, minimal decorations, add to the mission’s effect.

Mission Concepcion was moved to this location in 1731 and is the least altered, best preserved mission. The walls inside the church are similar to what they looked like in the 1700s, including wall art and frescoes in oranges, blues and yellows. On entering the church, be careful of the door heights, which are very short. I actually saw one tourist hit his head.

Also be sure to explore the two chapels in the back of the church which are elegant in their simplicity.

It seems strange that just over the fence of this mission is a residential neighborhood with apartments and homes just over the fence. It’s another mix of history and the modern world.

Admission to San Antonio Missions National Historical Park is free. While it can be a little confusing driving between the four missions (be sure to have a good map—a map is available at any mission location), brown signs direct visitors through south San Antonio. Visiting the park is almost like being outside the United States with the unique Spanish architecture.

Keep in mind that the missions were far more than churches. These missions were actually fortified villages that helped Spain keep control of the Texas frontier and their remnants provide visitors with a spectacular window into Texas history.

San Antonio Missions National Historical Park
2202 Roosevelt Avenue (Note: This location is the headquarters at Mission San Jose)
San Antonio, Texas 78210
Phone: (210)932-1001

Exploring Texas History at Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site

Texas Independence Hall

Many visitors to Texas may not realize that Texas was once an independent republic before becoming part of the United States in 1845. I decided to retrace some of the history I learned in my Texas history class in middle school by visiting the tiny town of Washington, Texas, located roughly 75 miles northwest of Houston.

Administered by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department, the state historic site at Washington-on-the-Brazos provides visitors with a glimpse of life during the Texas Revolution outlining the daily conditions faced by settlers and providing a history of the 1836 revolution with Mexico. The park includes a visitor’s center, hiking trails, ample picnic areas, a museum (Star of the Republic Museum), a farm (Barrington Farm) and Independence Hall, where the Texas Declaration of Independence from Mexico was signed on March 2, 1836.

Washington-on-the-Brazos

Washington, Texas began as a ferry crossing as flat boats could cross the nearby Brazos River. During the time of the revolution, Washington was a new, rough frontier town, which only had one street, three frame buildings and several log cabins. Life in Washington was hard as goods were hard to get (both during war and in peacetime); settlers faced diseases like malaria, cholera, yellow fever, dysentery and worms; and, wildlife like bears and wild pigs were in the area. In fact, bear fat or oil was used for cooking and lamp fuel.

Visitors to Independence Hall will see a very rough structure. When Texas declared independence in 1836, the hall wasn’t even completed. Delegates had limited choices of food, mainly comprised of cornbread, pork and occasionally milk and eggs. Coffee was available but I had to laugh when reading that delegates preferred “hard spirits” instead. Looking inside the hall, it’s hard to imagine what life must have been like in a partially constructed building in the winter of 1836.

Trails throughout the park lead visitors along the Brazos River and I tried to visualize what life must have been like when relying on ferry transportation. Not much is left in Washington, Texas today (just a few buildings). The town began to die in the 1860s when residents did not foresee the future by opting not to help fund a railroad. The railroad bypassed the town and ferry transportation died out.

Brazos River

Visiting the park is peaceful and with trails of Texas wildflowers, rolling hills, and the sounds of many birds, Washington-on-the-Brazos is a nice escape from the city. Be sure to bring bug spray, sunscreen for the brutal Texas sun and comfortable, closed toe walking shoes for the trails. Visitors should also be on the lookout for fire ants and snakes.

Texas Wildflowers in the Park

The visitor’s center includes exhibits, the usual souvenirs (like Texas flags and t-shirts), drinks and ice cream. For first time Texas visitors, be sure to sample a local brand of ice cream called Blue Bell which is a Texas institution. If the flavor “cookies and cream” is available, this flavor has a cult following and is not to be missed on a hot day.

From the visitor’s center, tourists can walk to the Star of the Republic Museum, which provides interesting exhibits on Texas’ beginnings with Native American settlements, colonization by European explorers, governance by Mexico and the Texas Revolution. The museum includes a film, “Once a Nation”, outlining life in the Texas Republic between 1836 and 1845. Do not miss the upstairs exhibits of life as a settler including what was available in mercantile stores (not much), what life was like for children (hard), what medical treatments were available (scary), what education was available, the cotton industry and quilting as examples. I especially liked seeing a flag with 28 stars, as Texas is the 28th state. Be sure to read the signs on the walkways upstairs as these summaries give information on what was going in the world during this period, as well as within the United States and in Texas. Admission to the museum is $5.00 and well worth the price for anyone with an interest in Texas history.

Museum Entrance

Exhibit on Children’s Lives in the early 1800s

Driving through the park, visitors can also stop at Barrington Farm, which was the home of Dr. Anson Jones, the last president of the Republic of Texas. The farm was moved to Washington-on-the-Brazos and visitors can tour the house as well as the slave quarters. Staff members, dressed in period costumes, are available both at the house and the farm to answer questions. Dr. Jones was an experimental farmer whose home was constructed in 1844. The main cash crops on the farm were cotton and corn, but other crops like tobacco, wheat and oats were grown but not as successful. I had a hard time looking through the slave quarters as the living conditions looked horrible. One of the guides told me that most Texans lived in similar conditions during that time.

Main House at Barrington Farm

Slave Quarters at Barrington Farm

Inside a Slave House

Admission to the farm is also $5.00 (or visitors can buy a combined pass to both the museum and the farm for $9.00) and there are still animals on the farm like roosters, chickens and turkeys.

Barrington Farm

Texas is known as “The Lone Star State” as for nine years, Texas was its own independent nation until annexed by the United States. Life for pioneers was hard living in a republic with hostile wildlife, few supplies and extreme heat during the summers. For visitors interested in life on the Texas frontier when Texas was its own country, a visit to Washington-on-the-Brazos is a hands-on lesson in Texas history.

Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historical Site
P.O. Box 305 (the park is located on F.M. 1155)
Washington, Texas 77880
(936)878-2214

Meeting Arctic Wildlife at Anchorage’s Alaska Zoo

Polar Bears Enjoying a Snack

I am in Alaska at least once a year for my job, most recently in April, 2013. In April, it’s still the off-season in Anchorage before cruise ship season, with lots of snow still around. Many attractions are still closed but the Alaska Zoo is open year round. After hearing about a polar bear cub, Kali, temporarily residing at the zoo, I decided that a visit was a must.

The Alaska Zoo

Life in Alaska can be hard—especially during the winters—and I was glad to see that the Alaska Zoo takes in orphaned and injured animals from around the state. Several birds, including injured owls and eagles, reside at the zoo, including eagles with wing injuries (one had a partial amputation), hawks and owls, such as a hawk owl, which had a damaged eye. These birds would be unable to survive in the wild and I was pleased that they now have a home at the zoo.

During April, the zoo was still a “winter wonderland” and it was interesting being outside with different animals in the snow. Some of the animals are unique to the Arctic like two adult polar bears, who are a threatened species. Polar bears do not hibernate and need sea ice to hunt seals. Their fur appears white because it actually reflects light. I happened to see the polar bears during their mid-morning snack and the meat was quickly devoured.

Outdoor trails in April

Musk ox are also on display which are common in northern Alaska. Native Inupiaq refer to musk ox as oomingmak, which means an “animal with a skin like a beard”. The wool of the musk ox, also known as qiviut, is extremely warm and is knitted by Alaska Native cooperatives into sweaters, hats and scarves.

Musk Ox

One of the newest zoo arrivals, Kali, is a polar bear cub who is just three or four months old. Unfortunately, Kali was orphaned on the Alaska North Slope near the Chukchi Sea and has been at the zoo since March (and is now a local “celebrity”). He is slowly being introduced to the public and currently is outside two hours daily. Kali was shy and it was an amazing experience watching him being bottle-fed by his handler. His formula is made of milk replacements, whipping cream, water and cod liver oil, which doesn’t sound very appetizing. To help Kali relax, his handler gave him a stuffed penguin toy, which Kali quickly attacked. As the zoo already has two adult polar bears, they are looking to find Kali a home somewhere at another zoo. It was fascinating seeing a baby polar bear and imagining how Kali would grow. I also didn’t realize that most polar bear cubs are all born in either December or January.

Kali the Polar Bear

Kali being fed

Kali is getting used to crowds

Other animals around the zoo include moose, which are common in Alaska. I actually saw one in the wild just a few blocks outside the zoo eating along the road. Other animals include arctic foxes (which blend into their landscape), yaks, lynx, tigers, wolves and coyotes. I especially liked the mountain goats, alpacas and Bactrian camels, which I had never heard of. I always think of camels in a hot climate in the desert, but Bactrian camels are from Mongolia and other Asian mountainous countries. The Alaska Zoo’s camel was huge with lots of thick hair for the cold.

Lynx

Loved the camel

Entry to the zoo is $12.00 with most of the zoo outside. I wasn’t expecting an outdoor zoo in Alaska to be open all year, but with the snow and the ice, the weather added to the atmosphere. For visitors to Alaska during the off-season, be careful, though, of slick ice on some of the zoo paths.

Alpaca (apparently alpacas are friendly and make good pets)

Signage for each animal gives excellent details including the average lifespan both in the wild and in captivity. The grounds also include a coffee shop (which I enjoyed with temperatures well below freezing) and a basic gift shop (mainly stocked with stuffed animals for children).

For visitors to Anchorage, the zoo includes unique species of animals not found in many places. I was impressed that the zoo also cares for injured and orphaned animals that otherwise would not have a chance of survival. The Alaska Zoo should be on any list for tourists visiting Anchorage as it’s an opportunity to learn about some of the magnificent animals that live in the cold.

The Alaska Zoo
4731 O’ Malley Road
Anchorage, Alaska 99507
(907)346-3242

Oven Fresh Cookies at New York City’s Levain Bakery

Early morning at Levain Bakery

It’s no secret that I have a sweet tooth and anytime I am visiting somewhere, I will be investigating bakeries and ice cream shops. I am lucky to have family in New York City who recommended an Upper West Side shop called Levain Bakery. “Levain” is a French word for a starting ingredient in bread.

Since 1994, area locals have been lining up at Levain for gigantic, seriously rich chocolate chip cookies, straight from the oven. I have visited this bakery in both the early afternoon and in the early evening, and there are always lines outside. Smiling New Yorkers are eagerly awaiting the taste temptations inside. Tourists crossing West 74th Street at Amsterdam can even smell the cookies baking from the corner. The smell is irresistible and makes me feel like I’m in my own kitchen baking.

Levain Bakery is located on the ground floor down a very steep set of stairs. Lines back up at the counter and unfortunately, there are very few stools to eat inside.

The chocolate chip walnut cookies are especially popular, as are the dark chocolate chip cookies. I am more of an oatmeal raisin cookie fan and tend to take my cookie to go to eat in either nearby Central Park or Riverside Park.

Cookies anyone?

In the mornings, fresh pastries and scones are on the menu. The chocolate chip brioche, scones and blueberry muffins are some of my favorites. Choices include an array of baked goods including raisin sticky buns, chocolate rolls, breads and fruit tarts. Prices are average for New York City and run from roughly $3.00 to $5.00 each. Even in the mornings, dogs are tied up outside and strollers are parked in line.

This bakery is a little out of the way of the main tourist areas (closest subway stop is West 72nd Street), but this shop is worth the trip. On my most recent visit to New York City, I am embarrassed to admit I came here three separate times. It’s been just a few days and I’m already missing the amazing choices available.

Lines at 6 p.m. for cookies

Freshly baked goods are a comfort and a treat. A good bakery can also be the heart and soul of a neighborhood and it’s always nice to stumble on some place special as a tourist. New Yorkers know that Levain Bakery is an Upper West Side institution, with delicacies worth the wait. I’m getting hungry as I write this, just thinking about those cookies.

Levain Bakery
167 West 74th Street
New York, NY 10023
(212)874-6080

Pursuing Dreams at New York City’s Tenement Museum

Gift Shop on Ground Floor

For unskilled immigrants coming to the United States in the late 1800s/early 1900s, life could be very hard. For those laborers on New York City’s Lower East Side who were chasing the “American Dream”, piecework and sewing were methods of survival. One hundred years ago, much of the clothing in the United States was made in New York City instead of overseas (like China, for instance) today.

For visitors to New York City, the Tenement Museum offers five tour subjects of the lives faced living in a tenement. A tenement is really the first word for an apartment building and means nothing more than three or more unrelated families living in a building.

At the Tenement Museum, all tickets (which run 22 dollars per tour) should be pre-booked to ensure a spot. The museum offers an opening thirty minute film on Lower East Side life, including the influence of neighborhood settlement houses.

I was very lucky as I didn’t realize how popular this museum had become, happening on one remaining ticket for the “Sweatshop Workers” tour. The Tenement Museum refers to each guide as an educator and our educator, Elly, was excellent. Tour groups are roughly fifteen people each and most tours are an hour. Our tour examined the Levine and Rogarshevsky families who both came from Europe to better their lives.

Our Educator Elly

Tours begin in a tenement house at 97 Orchard Street, which was built in 1863, and visitors will be taken to the entrance and one floor. Life in these buildings was extremely hard, and with the battered ceilings and dingy rooms, visitors get a glimpse of what life was like. With a lack of light, the smells of sewage, horses, smoke and foods cooking in the streets, daily living was a struggle. Diseases like tuberculosis, cholera, infant deaths and influenza ravaged Lower East Side tenements. Privacy was non-existent and with tiny apartments filled with eight to twelve people, conditions were horrible. For instance, in the Levine apartment, the kitchen was used to prepare laundry, cook, bake, iron and sleep. The best room was generally the parlor which had windows, providing light and a breeze. In this specific building, there were five floors with four apartments per floor. The entire building had four outhouses and one water faucet.

97 Orchard Street with a Tour Group Outside

Outhouses

Pay was minimal. Our educator raised a good point when she asked our group what it must have been like to be able to produce something so beautiful that the maker would never be able to afford.

Conditions in this museum are hard to fathom and it’s sad knowing what many immigrants endured. Some of the artifacts shown to visitors were actually found when the building was bought in the 1980s, stored in rats’ nests hidden in the walls!

Tour guides and staff at the Tenement Museum are knowledgeable, enthusiastic and very happy to answer questions. Children eight and older are welcome on some of the tours while other tours require a minimum age of twelve. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside and only one tenement floor will be visited, because of preservation reasons. I had been to this museum several years ago when you could visit the entire building.

The Tenement Museum also includes an excellent gift shop (including a library) with all sorts of books and information about life on the Lower East Side. Even today, this neighborhood is roughly 40 percent immigrant-based.

History of 97 Orchard Street

This museum provides first-rate information and is one of my favorite museums in New York City. Be sure to book early as the daily tours will sell out. Subway lines to the area are a little confusing (I took the M train to Delancey Street), but the J, Z, F, B and D lines are also in the area.

Immigrants in the 1800s-1900s came from overseas to try to better their futures. The Tenement Museum is sobering reminder of the struggles and squalor ordinary people had to face to pursue their dreams, working to improve their lives for both themselves and future generations. I love this museum.

The Tenement Museum
103 Orchard Street
New York, New York 10002
(212)982-8420

Wineries (and a Cabin) Around Wimberley, Texas

Scenery at Driftwood Estate

I am beginning to like Wimberley, Texas more and more. Some friends of mine originally recommended Wimberley and I also have friends who camped in Wimberley when they were young. The shops, Hill Country scenery and quirky art galleries are all a part of Wimberley’s charm. On this visit, I decided to branch out by renting a cabin for a night and visiting some local wineries.

I have visited wineries in places like Napa Valley in the past; however, I’m not a huge fan of Napa because of both the crowds and commercialization. I prefer wineries that are small, friendly and relaxed. The Texas wine industry is “up-and-coming”, with some wineries located in the Texas Hill Country. Just north of Wimberley, I decided to visit two wineries in Driftwood, Texas, which are on the Driftwood Wine Tour. Sometimes it’s the smaller things in life that are the most memorable and these wineries easily qualify.

Driftwood Estate Winery

Driftwood Estate Winery

Just off Ranch Road 12, visitors will see signs to the Driftwood Estate Winery. This winery is located back a rough gravel road but the bumpy drive is worth the experience. Since 1998, Driftwood Estate has operated a winery with a panoramic view of the Hill Country, with a tasting room opening in 2002.

Visitors can sample white, red, sweet or sparkling wines with five tastes for five dollars. I drink mainly white wines but this winery is particularly known for its reds, including the 2010 Alamo Red which received double gold recognition at this year’s Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo. My personal favorite is the 2012 Viognier (white wine), which also received a silver medal at the rodeo.

I love the atmosphere at this winery as chairs and picnic tables look out over the Hill Country, and visitors can even hear goats bleating in the fields below. Inside the tasting room, everything is laid back and side items, like crackers and cheese, are available for purchase. Children accompanied by adults and dogs (there is even a dog park!) are allowed at the winery. Everyone from couples, families to even bachelorette parties were sitting on a hilltop looking over the vineyards and beautiful landscape below. Sadly, visitors will also notice evidence of Texas’ current drought conditions seeing the surrounding scenery.

Picnic Tables at Driftwood Estate Winery

Driftwood Estate also offers weddings and picnic tables can even be pre-booked. This winery is small but highly worth visiting for tourists near the Austin area. Crowds are small, the scenery is spectacular and I think Driftwood Estate would be a fantastic place to watch the sun set.

Driftwood Estate Winery
4001 Elder Hill Road
Driftwood, Texas 78619
(512)858-9667

Wimberley Valley Winery

Welcome to Wimberley Valley Winery

Wimberley Valley Winery

Slightly south of the Driftwood Estate Winery is another winery, Wimberley Valley, which has been family owned since 1983. Driving to this winery is also an interesting experience as in route, there is a farm selling alpacas, which look like furry llamas. I’d never seen an alpaca before and had to stop my car to take a look. Visitors should watch for the sign which advertises alpacas for sale.

When arriving at Wimberley Valley Winery, visitors will see a field next door with cattle, horses, a donkey and even a llama grazing. The donkey and the llama came right up to the fence.

Llama outside Wimberley Valley Winery

Wimberley Valley Winery produces sweet wines including Sweet Blueberry, Sweet Plum, Sweet Blush and Sweet Red. Other wines, like standard reds and whites are brought in from other wineries (I especially liked the Buehler Vineyard Chardonnay), with dessert and sparkling wines also brought in and available for sale. The sweet wines are popular with tourists as well as a dessert wine called Chocolate Shop Chocolate Strawberry. I have to admit that I didn’t try the chocolate strawberry as that sounded way too rich. Tastings are priced like Driftwood Estate—five tastes for five dollars.

The tasting room is decorated with vibrant stained glass and outside, a wedding was getting ready to take place around sunset. The exterior grounds are decorated with barrels, with daisies on the tables, which blend well with the Hill Country setting. Families were stopping at the winery to sample wines and look through the fence to see the animals grazing next door.

Once again, crowds were small and the atmosphere is both friendly and relaxed. I could easily spend several hours here as Wimberley Valley Winery is an undiscovered pleasure for visitors to unwind.

Wimberley Valley Winery
2825 Lone Man Mountain Road
Driftwood, Texas 78619
(512)847-2592

Cypress Creek Cottages

I flunked my Girl Scout camping badge and didn’t know what I would find in Wimberley as a cabin could mean anything. After researching the web, I decided on Cypress Creek Cottages and am so glad I did, as these cottages are delightful.

The cottages are color-coded with twelve cottages on the premises. South cottages are by the creek, while north cottage residents can walk across the road for creek access. I happened to pick Cabin 6, the purple cottage, with exterior purple doors and an interior of purple artwork, purple pillows, a purple lampshade and even a purple throw on the bed. I was surprised to find even a little fireplace, a personal welcome letter, a personal barbecue pit, a patio table and even a hot tub. Cabins are equipped with a full kitchen (including a coffee maker, dishes, and even complimentary popcorn and chocolate wafers), comfortable beds and free WiFi. My cottage could easily sleep several people.

Purple Door

I didn’t see any wildlife on my visit (but could hear many birds) but deer are in the area. There are also some wildlife I don’t want to see like snakes and fire ants, which are common in rural Texas.

Living room in Cabin 6

The cottages are pet-friendly (there is a dog park by the creek) and Cypress Creek even offers pet-sitting for an additional charge. Be aware that on weekends, Cypress Creek typically requires a two night stay. I was lucky in that someone had booked the purple cabin for one weekend night, so I was able to book just one night.

These cottages are located on the far north side of Wimberley and are not easy to find. Look for the signs to Hillsedge Road and turn.

It’s the personal touches that make Cypress Creek Cottages special (who leaves a personal welcome note anymore?) and a joy for guests.

A welcome note

Cypress Creek Cottages
104 Scudder Lane
Wimberley, Texas 78676
(512)847-5950

A House Rises Again in Boston, Massachusetts

The Otis House Museum is filled with history of how a neighborhood can rise and fall over centuries. Originally built in 1796 and designed by Charles Bulfinch for lawyer and politician Harrison Gray Otis and his family, this home was once a centerpiece of Boston’s elite in Bowdoin Square.

Admission to the museum is well worth the price of $8.00 as visitors will experience the history of changes in both Boston’s West End and Beacon Hill. The guided tour, which runs roughly 30 minutes, begins with a slide show of the changes in the Otis House over the centuries. This home was the first house of Harrison Otis before moving to Beacon Hill. Bowdoin Square was originally “the” address in Boston but now just the Otis House, as well as the neighboring Old West Church, remains. The name Bowdoin now only exists as a subway stop. Time passes and it was hard to hear how such a historic home declined and almost didn’t survive. The Otis House went from being prime real estate to a shared house to a “medicated shampoo spa” to finally a boarding house before being rescued as a museum. This home even survived the widening of Cambridge Street (the house had to be physically moved back forty-two feet, losing a basement in the process) as well as the removal of most of the West End neighborhood during the 1950s.

Visitors to the Otis House will be loaned a pair of cloth blue booties to walk on the delicate floors and carpets. If visiting in the winter, the house is not heated so tourists need to come prepared. Unfortunately, interior photography is not permitted. Guides are extremely enthusiastic and as visitor numbers are small, this museum is highly worth a visit.

Many of the rooms in the home are painted in a bright canary yellow, which is almost too yellow for my taste. It is unknown why the Otis family liked yellow so much but it could be the coloring added light to the dark candlelit winters. Furniture of the period was made to be easily moved, as for instance, if one room had more light at a certain time of year, furniture would be relocated to that room.

The parlors, bedrooms and dining room are filled with antiques and have been restored to resemble what the house looked like when the Otis family lived there. The setup is a little unusual as the drawing room and Mrs. Otis’s bedroom are across from each other on the same floor. In the late 1700s, today’s concept of privacy and some rooms being off limits did not exist. In “confinement” during pregnancy, Mrs. Otis might meet close friends in her bedroom.

The dining room is covered on the floor with a protective crumb cloth because of the expensive carpet. During the Revolutionary War period, the United States did not have a textile mill and carpets had to be imported at outrageous costs. It was kind of funny that such an elegant room has a big cloth covering most of the carpet. It almost looked like construction work was being done on the floor.

The entry hall is impressive and our guide mentioned that the entry room itself was much larger than the average Bostonian was living in during the late 1700s. Under the hall stairs, visitors will see fire buckets with the owners’ names on the buckets, as if a neighbor had a fire, it was expected that all neighbors bring their buckets and help.

Otis House Museum, 1796

A sample boarding room is also included on the tour, as well as an example of a spa room when the house served as a medicated spa. I actually found the spa room to be sad with the cold blue colors and thinking of how the house declined.

We learn from history and the Otis House Museum is a key part of Boston’s past. Visitors can imagine life in the late 1700s and early 1800s, visualizing the opulence that was once Boston’s Bowdoin Square. This museum is a both a find and a pleasure.

Otis House Museum
141 Cambridge Street
Boston, Massachusetts 02114
(617)994-5920

Visiting a Townhouse (and Indulging in Chocolate) in Boston’s Beacon Hill

Nichols House Museum

There is something about Boston’s Beacon Hill. This historic 19th century neighborhood is filled with brick houses, polished door knockers, gas lamps and cobblestone streets. When the weather is warm, meticulous flower boxes are in bloom and around Christmas, simple wreaths adorn the doors. Antique shops and creative boutiques line Charles Street, Beacon Hill’s main shopping area.

Unfortunately, houses in this neighborhood are tough to visit as most residences are private. Few options exist for tourists to see the insides of these homes.

Nichols House Museum

One year-round option for visitors to explore a Beacon Hill townhouse is the Nichols House Museum. For an $8.00 admission fee, guests can take an hourly guided tour, which lasts roughly thirty minutes. During the off-season in March, groups are small and I was the only tourist for the enthusiastic 2:00 tour.

Built in 1804, the Nichols House Museum was originally part of four connected row houses, originally owned by Jonathan Mason, with architecture attributed to Charles Bulfinch (who also designed the Massachusetts State House). Only two families have ever lived in this particular house, being the Masons and the Nichols families. From 1885 to 1960, this was the home of Rose Standish Nichols, one of three daughters in a doctor’s family. Born in 1872, Rose Nichols was not a standard woman of her time. She never saw the need to marry, learned skills in woodworking and embroidery, helped found the Women’s International League of Peace and Freedom in 1915 and supported herself by working as a landscape architect (including publishing several books!). The house reflects many of Miss Nichols’ tastes.

Front Garden

On the ground floor, visitors will see a study which was originally a doctor’s waiting room and patients’ room used by Miss Nichols’ father. Guests today will see several carved chairs, impressively detailed, crafted by Rose herself. Although flash photography is prohibited, I had to sneak a photo as I was amazed by the talent involved.

Study–Notice the Carved Chairs

Other rooms in the tour include the parlor, with delicate tapestries, a dining room covered in the original Victorian wallpaper, Rose’s bedroom, her parents’ room and a butler’s pantry, which was added later. Be sure to peek out the butler pantry curtains as Beacon Hill homes have hidden gardens where the privy was originally located.

Butler’s Pantry

The bedrooms and parlor are painted to Miss Nichols’ tastes, in pinks and greens, in a similar format to the gardens she designed. Interestingly, the parlor windows are the same heights as windows on the other floors as generally, houses in Beacon Hill will have taller windows on the parlor floor.

The embroidery on the fire screen in Rose’s bedroom is her work. There is a possible myth that fire screens were put in front of fireplaces as women had wax in their makeup (so they didn’t want their makeup to melt!) but more likely the fire screens were used to keep women cooler and to avoid flushed complexions, which were considered unattractive at that time.

Stairs in this house are steep and I was surprised to hear that Miss Nichols used the stairs until her death in 1960.

The Nichols House reflects a period in the 19th century and lets visitors step back into the elegance of Beacon Hill’s homes in another time and era.

Nichols House Museum
55 Mount Vernon Street
Boston, Massachusetts 02108
(617)227-6993

Beacon Hill Chocolates

Beacon Hill Chocolates

After visiting the Nichols House Museum and exploring Beacon Hill, visitors should walk down Mount Vernon Street, turning on Charles Street, to experience some of the best chocolates I’ve ever tasted.

For seven years, Beacon Hill Chocolates has been enticing Bostonians with chocolates from New England and around the world. For a “chocoholic” like me, this shop is irresistible.

Displays Inside

The store’s owner describes herself as a “chocolate ambassador” and with knowledgeable staff, along with a colorful antique interior, guests to this shop will want to linger. The most popular flavor currently is salted caramels but I’m a big fan of the lemon chocolates. With a store filled with choices (including even gelato), it will be hard to decide.

So Many Chocolates to Choose…Decisions, Decisions…

Beacon Hill Chocolates is also filled with souvenir boxes covered with both antique replicas and scenes of Boston. All boxes are handmade by one artist and requests can even be made to include names and dates. These boxes, filled with chocolates, make unusual gifts.

Easter Candy on Display

While this shop can be expensive, these are seriously good chocolates worth a special treat. Beacon Hill Chocolates is typically named a “Best of Boston” Chocolatier and this store easily rivals chocolate stores I’ve visited elsewhere. This shop is a love letter to the art of fine chocolates.

Beacon Hill Chocolates
91 Charles Street (Upstairs)
Boston, Massachusetts 02114
(617)725-1900

A Museum Day in Houston, Texas

Butterfly Center

I’ve lived in Houston many years and one thing tourists may not know is that Houston has an excellent Museum District. For this post, I decided to visit a couple of exhibitions at both the Houston Museum of Natural Science and the Menil Collection. Unfortunately, Houston seems to be bypassed in the press by Dallas and Austin so I was glad to see that The New York Times recently included Houston in its feature “46 Places to Go in 2013”.

March 16, 2013

The Houston Museum of Natural Science

Outside the Museum with the azaelas blooming

It’s a Saturday morning during Texas spring break, and one of those beautiful mornings in Houston when the azaleas are in full bloom and it’s not too hot to go outside. I pick the Houston Museum of Natural Science and arrive early before the crowds are too bad, as this museum gets packed on weekends. The Houston Museum of Natural Science was originally founded in 1909 and was originally called the Houston Museum of Natural History. The current location has been the museum’s home since 1961.

This museum attracts a lot of families and includes everything from a “bucking Bronco Saurus” ride for children (there are, however, age, weight and height restrictions) to the Weiss Energy Hall (as Houston is synonymous with the oil and gas industry), a planetarium, a brand new paleontology hall and even a giant screen theatre. Personally, I love the Cockrell Butterfly Center which was added to the museum in 1994. I decide to focus my visit on the Butterfly Center.

A simulated rain forest

Admission to the Butterfly Center only is $8.00 (general admission to the entire museum is $15.00). Visitors will enter through the Brown Hall of Entomology which includes exhibits on insect evolution as well as several quiz stations for kids. The exhibits include caterpillars, moths and even tarantulas (but frankly, I’m not a big fan of spiders even if they are behind glass!).

Entering the Butterfly Center is an interesting experience as the Center is a simulated tropical rain forest. Visitors are advised to stay on the trails and not touch any butterflies. Inside the Center, the temperatures are kept at 80 degrees with 80 percent humidity, which apparently is the perfect environment for both butterflies and tropical plants. The butterflies are obtained from butterfly farms around the world including parts of the United States, Costa Rica, Ecuador, the United Kingdom, Kenya, Malaysia and Taiwan. I was surprised to hear that the U.S. Department of Agriculture requires special importation permits as butterflies are considered pests.

Visitors entering the Center will immediately notice the warm temperatures and butterflies everywhere. I had to laugh that one butterfly quickly landed on my camera and another landed on my leg. Signs are posted to make sure to check any bags and purses to make sure visitors do not leave with stowaways.

Inside the Center is a waterfall which adds to the effects of a real rain forest. Even though there will be lots of people on the trails, with the dense tropical plants and lots of butterflies, visitors will almost forget about the other people around. I personally like sitting on the benches and watching several species of butterflies everywhere.

Sponges (soaked in water and sugar) and fruit are also scattered throughout the Center as this attracts butterflies. Near the back of the trails, is a caged iguana named Chano. Chano has free reign of the Butterfly Center at night but during the day has a special cage during visiting hours as the crowds can make him nervous. Chano was found and donated by the Brownsville, Texas zoo and was likely someone’s abandoned pet. I was glad to see that Chano has a new, welcoming home surrounded by a waterfall and lots of butterflies.

Chano (a male green iguana)

I could spend hours just watching all the butterflies as this Center is something unique. Visitors should be sure to bring their cameras as photo opportunities are everywhere. I would recommend visiting the Butterfly Center (and the entire museum) early. The Houston Museum of Natural Science is one of Houston’s more popular museums and will easily require several hours to see everything.

The Houston Museum of Natural Science
5555 Hermann Park Drive
Houston, Texas 77030
Phone: (713)639-4629

Good Dog Hot Dog Truck

After spending the morning exploring the Butterfly Center, I decide to have lunch at the Good Dog Hot Dog Truck. I love food trucks and am a huge fan of hot dogs anyway. I first heard about this food truck in the Houston Chronicle and I’ve been hooked ever since. This truck operates Wednesdays through Sundays, but visitors should check Good Dog’s website as to where the truck will be (and to be sure the truck has no mechanical problems or that the stop is being cancelled due to poor weather). On Saturdays, Good Dog may be stationed at Inversion Coffee House off Montrose Boulevard, which happens to be near my next museum stop.

Food truck

Good Dog offers gourmet hot dogs priced roughly $5.00 to $6.50 each. All of the condiments are homemade and the hot dogs have various themes including the popular Ol’ Zapata (which includes bacon, jalapenos and relish), the New Yorker (which includes beer-braised sauerkraut and whole grain mustard) the Corny Dog, the Guac-a-Dog (with avocado, jalapenos, cilantro, cumin and lime) or one of my favorites, the Chi-Town Dog (which includes tomatoes, dill pickle slices, pickled peppers, relish and mustard on a poppy seed bun).

Chi-Town Dog

Good Dog

Several of us in line are “Good Dog Groupies” as I am embarrassed to admit that I have driven across Houston on a weekend just to have these hot dogs. It’s funny to find out that several in line have done the same thing.

The Good Dog Hot Dog Truck is celebrating its two year anniversary next weekend. For visitors to Houston, be sure to find this truck as I don’t think I’ve ever had a hot dog this good.

Gooddogfoodtruck.com

The Menil Collection

Entering the Menil Collection

The Menil Collection was founded by John de Menil and Dominique Schlumberger from France. During World War II, the de Menils left France and relocated in Houston, collecting substantial art while John de Menil headed Schlumberger’s operations (oilfield services). The Menil Collection is a diverse collection of both modern art and ancient artifacts, housed in a simple grey building designed by architect Renzo Piano.

Menil Collection

The building itself is filled with lots of natural light and hidden courtyards inside. Dominique de Menil wanted a museum where people could view art with few distractions. There are minimal descriptions and the museum is designed for visitors just to enjoy art. Rooms are divided into ancient art (like ancient Greek artifacts thousands of years old), modern art (like Warhol and Rothko) and surrealist art (like Picasso and Magritte). Unfortunately, any photos inside are prohibited.

Art on the Menil Collection lawn

I personally find some of the modern art too eclectic for my taste but for fans of museums like the Tate Modern or the Museum of Modern Art, the Menil Collection has a similar feel. What I love about this museum is both the building and the African art collection from the 19th and 20th centuries. It seems like many museums do not focus on African art and I enjoy the masks (especially the owl masks) from the Congo. There are rooms filled with art from Mali, Gabon and Nigeria, and the masks and statues, while modern, definitely convey an emotion. I could visit these rooms over and over again as the craftsmanship is spectacular. To me, the talent and creativity is amazing.

The Menil Collection is free and is a great stop for visitors who just want to spend an afternoon looking at art. Visitors will also notice that in addition to the bookshop across the street, all of the houses in the two blocks surrounding the museum are painted in similar shades of grey. No one knows exactly how or why this occurred but for any residences in the 1400 to 1500 blocks of Sul Ross or Barnard, houses must be painted grey. It is speculated that Dominique de Menil may have visited a village in France where the entire village was painted the same, but no one can confirm if that’s true.

Grey houses across from the Menil Collection

The Menil Collection is one of Houston’s secret finds. It’s an afternoon to view world class art in a peaceful, relaxing atmosphere.

The Menil Collection
1515 Sul Ross Street
Houston, Texas 77006
Phone: (713)525-9400

Touring Painted Churches near Schulenburg, Texas

I had heard some word-of-mouth referrals about the Painted Churches built by Czech and German settlers near Schulenburg, Texas over the years. There are roughly twenty of these churches around Texas, but four happen to be close to Schulenburg. These four churches still have active congregations and as the drive from Houston is roughly 85 miles, I decided to investigate their history.

Schulenburg, Texas

For visitors wanting to tour the Painted Churches, I would start by stopping at the Schulenburg Chamber of Commerce (Monday to Friday, 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., Saturday 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.) located on North Main Street in Schulenburg. For groups, guided tours can be booked a few weeks in advance, but I opted for the self-driving tour. The Chamber of Commerce has a helpful map for sale for $4.00, which includes thorough details of the remote farm roads needed to access the various churches. The Chamber of Commerce will also know if any of the churches have special events during the day. On my visit, I was advised not to visit High Hill until the afternoon as a funeral was being held in the morning.

All the churches (except in Dubina) are left unlocked for visitors to explore at their leisure.

Schulenburg Chamber of Commerce

Ammannsville, Texas

The tiny town of Ammannsville was settled in 1870 by Andrew Ammann and his family. Visitors will see the steeple of St. John the Baptist Catholic Church, which was built in 1917, well before they see the town.

Outside the church is a statue with Czech inscriptions and a card in the church window welcomes visitors, asking guests to be sure to shut the door to keep out insects.

Pink interior inside the church

I was stunned by the interior of the church, which was completely unexpected, as it is painted in a dusty shade of pink. Nouveau art decorations, which include vines and plants, cover the ceilings and walls. The stained glass adds to the colorful atmosphere, with one side of the church featuring male saints and the other side featuring female saints.

In Ammannsville, most settlers were mainly farmers from Czechoslovakia and Bohemia, with a few from Germany. The current congregation is now comprised of fifty families of mostly senior citizens who are direct descendants of these settlers. Look closely on the back of the pews as there are clips. These are hat clips which were previously used for men to hang their hats. I was surprised to see prayer cards hanging in the pews that were bilingual in both English and Czech.

This church is well-marked and includes some historical information by the entry. Personally, of the four painted churches, St. John the Baptist was one of my favorites.

Dubina, Texas

Dubina, Texas was the first Czech settlement in Texas (1856) and the current population is roughly 200 people. The name Dubina is based on the Czech word “dub” (meaning oak tree) because of the surrounding landscape.

The current sanctuary of Sts. Cyril & Methodius Catholic Church was built between 1911 and 1912, as a hurricane in 1909 destroyed the previous church. Normally, visitors to this church will have to peak through a barrier into a locked sanctuary, but I was lucky to sneak in behind a tour group and see the entire church. Again, the interior is totally unexpected with vivid blue ceilings and gold stars with vibrant frescoes and stenciling throughout the church. The colorful windows add to the effect.

Dubina

Inside the church at Dubina

I could only stay a few minutes as the tour group was leaving but was stunned on looking outside to see restrooms labeled in both English and Czech. With the remoteness of the landscape, I felt as if I was really stepping back into another century.

Bilingual

For visitors to Dubina, a short drive from the church is Piano Bridge, which is a rare iron bridge built by the King Iron Bridge Company. I was a little worried that there is a warning sign to drivers that the bridge is weak. I decided to just photograph the bridge and stay on one side.

An Iron Bridge

Praha, Texas

St. Mary’s Church was built in 1895. Praha is now a small community but in the 1880s and 1890s, this community was sizable. The church itself is built of stone with a copper roof. Inside the church, the ceiling was painted by a Swiss artist living in San Antonio. The ceiling, which has never been repainted, is of a Texas perspective of the Garden of Eden and took roughly two years to complete. I overheard one guide explain that the Texas state flower, the bluebonnet, was left out of the murals as bluebonnets didn’t become the state flower until 1901.

Praha

Inside the Church in Praha

Pictures of various saints line the walls, as well as stained glass windows. Visitors will notice that the church is dark and apparently this is because the breaker box is very old, so lights are left off.

Outside the church are three small chapels, which are dedicated to members of the congregation who died in World War II. These chapels are bilingual as the dedications are in English and Czech.

Chapel in Memory of World War II

High Hill, Texas

My last stop on the Painted Churches tour was at St. Mary Roman Catholic Church, which is nicknamed the “Queen of the Painted Churches”. The small community of High Hill was originally settled by Austrian-Moravian immigrants who arrived in Galveston, Texas in 1860. These immigrants made their way to what was then known as Blum Hill (and a growing community), which was renamed High Hill.

High Hill

The current church was built in 1906 and to me, was more ornate than the other churches. The entry includes vibrant stenciling and inside the sanctuary, the ceiling decorations include crosses, flowers and vines, all beautifully painted.

High Hill

Visitors will notice that nearer to the front that the pews are narrower as at one stage, more pews had to be added to the church. The altar is elaborate with bright stained glass.
Next door to the church is a souvenir shop and it seemed strange being in an ornate church in such remote countryside (there were even horses grazing next door).

Overall, for history buffs, I would recommend visiting these churches. I did run into some tour groups (especially in Praha) but for the most part, I had the churches practically to myself. The Painted Churches are of another time and era when immigrants were coming to Texas from Europe but trying to keep the culture of their homelands.

Schulenburg Chamber of Commerce
618 North Main Street
Schulenburg, Texas 78956
(866)504-5294